Tag Archives: self drive

Self drive to Shiretoko National Park

I hope that you have found the last 2 articles on Sakura viewing useful. Something very relaxing to do during a free and easy trip when you are not in a rush. Today, I will be sharing with you my self drive experiences in Shiretoko National Park (知床国立公園), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Shiretoko National Park is one of Japan’s most beautiful and unspoiled national parks covering most of the Shiretoko Peninsula at the northeastern tip Hokkaido. It has one of the richest integrated ecosystems in the world and is home to a variety of wildlife, including brown bears, sea eagles, deer and foxes.

I had not planned it this way, but it looks like I have taken you from Southern Hokkaido, to Central Hokkaido and now to Eastern Hokkaido. The best way to get to the Shiretoko National Park would be a self drive trip. Do check out my earlier article on renting a car in Japan.

Timing is important as many of the national park’s roads get closed from around late November to around late April, including the road over Shiretoko Pass due to snow. This trip is more for a nature lover or someone looking for scenic locations. If you are more of a shopaholic, this is not suitable trip for you. In addition, most of the places along the way would be small towns with limited food establishments. You will want to stock up before you leave Chitose. There are also less accommodation options in Eastern Hokkaido, you cannot afford to be too picky, no business hotels here, mainly  traditional Japanese ryokans or standard hotels. Before you get discouraged, the trip is very very much worth it, IMHO.

I started my trip from Chitose taking the Doto Expressway all the way to the end of the expressway at Ashoro IC. Yes, the expressway network does not reach all the way to the eastern side of Hokkaido. After which I took route 241 which takes you on a NE direction towards Shari/Shiretoko.

As it is a rather long drive, it would be great to break it up over a couple of days and also stop by along the Akan(阿寒)/Lake Mansu and Kushiro (釧路) areas. Since route 241 passes by both Lake Akan and Lake Mansu, I spent the afternoon exploring the Akan area and stayed the night there. The next morning, I made a stop at Lake Mansu before heading towards Shari/Shiretoko.

The main attraction remains Shiretoko National Park. Paid parking is available near to the entrance of the park. In general, you would be heading in the direction for Shari Town/Utoro. You can stop by the Shiretoko National Park Nature Center before heading towards the individual attractions.

Picture of Shiretoko Nature Centre, info board
Shiretoko Nature Centre, info board

Of the different attractions here, I had chosen to visit these 4.

 

1. Oshinkoshin Waterfall

Oshinkoshin Waterfall (オシンコシンの滝, mapcode 894 727 045) is one of the popular attractions where you will find many tourists. Access is from the main road which leads into a parking area. It is quite easy to locate as the waterfall can be seen from the main road. From the car park, there an access path with guide rails for you to climb up the trail for a better view of the waterfall.

Picture of Oshinkoshin waterfall
Oshinkoshin waterfall

 

2. Onnebetsu Bridge

Onnebetsu Bridge (遠音別橋) is probably one of the lesser known places. It is located off the Shari town area, just a bridge along the road to Shari town. You will have to keep a sharp lookout on the road for the sign. If you are lucky, there might be other cars stopped along the road to indicate the correct spot.

Picture of Onnebetsu Bridge signboard

Onnebetsu Bridge signboard

From the bridge you could look down into the stream to observe wild salmon swimming upstream. The gates were unlocked and I was able to walk all the way down to the side of the stream. Unfortunately, timing was not right when I was there, no jumping salmon to be seen.

Picture of river below Onnebetsu Bridge
River below Onnebetsu Bridge

 

3. Shiretoko Goko Lakes (the 5 lakes)

The Shiretoko goko lakes (知床五湖) were formed when Mt. Io erupted leaving behind an impression looking like a god’s five fingerprints. Interestingly, the lakes are filled by underground spring water. This is a really great place to visit, blowing your mind away with its majestic grandeur.

There are clear directions from the National Park Nature Center to the Goko Lakes. You can drive all the way in where paid parking is available.The Shiretoko goko lakes were formed when Mt. Io erupted leaving behind an impression looking like a god’s five fingerprints. Interestingly, the lakes are filled by underground spring water. This is a really great place to visit, it will blow your mind away with it’s majestic grandeur.

Picture of roadsign to Shiretoko goko lakes
Shiretoko goko lakes, roadsign

Once at the car park, you are a stone’s throw away from the paths leading to the lakes. You could choose to use the elevated wooden boardwalk or opt to walk the ground pathway. The elevated wooden boardwalk is opened all the time but provides access to only one of the lakes. The ground pathway would give better coverage. However, there are 2 things to watch out for – eco season and bears. During eco season, you will be required to attend a briefing (fee payable) before taking the ground pathway. As for bears, if they are spotted, the ground pathway will be closed. Due to bear sightings when I was there, I was only able to take the elevated wooden boardwalk.

Picture of entrance to elevated wooden boardwalk, Shiretoko goko lakes
Shiretoko goko lakes, entrance to elevated wooden boardwalk
Picture of Shiretoko goko lakes
Shiretoko goko lakes

 

4. Shiretoko Pass

On the way back, you could drive south through Shiretoko Pass (知床峠), <Shiretoko Pass Car Park,  知床峠駐車場, mapcode 757 492 298> and head towards Chitose via Kushiro. The pass is along the top of Shiretoko Highway (Route 334) between Utoro in the north and Rausu in the south at an elevation of 740m. This is one of Japan’s scenic drive routes.

At the pass, you will get a breath taking view of Mount Rausu and surrounding mountain ranges. Through the lookout point, you will be able catch the Sea of Okhotsk

Picture of Shiretoko Pass
Shiretoko Pass

 

Are you excited about making a trip to Shiretoko now? Definitely worth the drive. If you are a photo buff, please do bring along all your gear. I had decided to travel light, leaving behind my lens hood and CPL, a very big mistake. Bring along your ultra-wide lens too.

Have a wonderful self drive trip to Shiretoko!

Ja
KL

 

Quick guide on driving in Hokkaido

Welcome! If you are planning a self drive trip to Hokkaido, this article is for you!

In an earlier post, I had mentioned that the road system in Japan is right hand drive – driver’s seat is on the right and vehicles keep to the left. And for most countries, you would need to have an IDP (International Driving Permit) to rent a car. You will need to complete this locally in your own country before departing for your free and easy trip.

I had also covered renting a car with Toyota Rent a Car in that post. Today we are going to focus on driving to your destination.

Here are some very useful Hokkaido maps that you can use to start planning your itinerary. I also love the one provided by Toyota Rent a Car. However, I have been unable to locate a PDF copy.

  1. Hokkaido Tourism Organization: Drive Hokkaido (front, back)
  2. Hokkaido Tourism Organization: Travel Around Hokkaido
  3. Ministry of Land,Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism Hokkaido Regional Development Bureau: Must-have Handbook for Driving in Hokkaido

Hokkaido is large territory that you would not be able to cover all of Hokkaido within in single trip. Now if you planning to be there for a month, it would be a different story. For your typical one week itinerary, I think you would be need at least 4 self drive trips, roughly covering Southern Hokkaido, Central Hokkaido, Northern Hokkaido and Eastern Hokkaido. If this is your first driving trip, I would suggest that you start with either Central Hokkaido or Southern Hokkaido.

Some of the maps mentioned above do provide a grid of estimated travel times between cities. This would be very useful for your trip planning purposes. Most of the distances are quite far away, do not under estimate the travel time required. Outside the city areas, there are no street lights on the highways nor expressways. So do plan to arrive at your destination before sunset. Do also plan for rest stops and meal breaks. When you are finally on the ground, your trusty on-board GPS will compute an estimated arrival time at the destination.

Picture of GPS showing estimated arrival time and distance left
GPS showing estimated arrival time and distance left

Fortunately, the expressways do cover a large part of Hokkaido. The expressway operator for Hokkaido is the East Nippon Expressway Company Limited, or sometimes abbreviated to East NEXCO. You can find more info on the expressway network here.

 

Picture of Hokkaido Expressway network (from NEXCO)
Hokkaido Expressway network (from NEXCO)

As you can see from the map provided by East NEXCO above, the expressways do cover a big part of Hokkaido especially on the central and southern areas. You will be able to use the expressways most of the time if you are in both these areas. However, you will need to depend on the normal highways for Eastern Hokkaido and also the northern end of Hokkaido.

The GPS system is also smart enough to know when you are on the expressway and it switches to expressway mode navigation. In this mode, the GPS will display the next few exits and the distances to these exits. If the exit includes a rest stop, it will also give you an indication of the facilities there, for example if there is a station at that rest stop.

So driving on the expressway is a breeze. However, you will need to pay for using the expressways though. You can choose to pay manually or use the ETC card. Credit cards are generally accepted. However, there are some stretches where it’s just a fixed amount of toll collected at entry.

For foreigners, there is the option of the Hokkaido Expressway Pass which gives you unlimited expressway travel for a fixed fee. You can find out more about using the ETC card and the Hokkaido Expressway Pass here.

If you are planning on covering a large part of Hokkaido with frequently use of the expressways, the Hokkaido Expressway Pass would probably be a good option to consider.

Here are 5 other things to take note of when using the expressways.

1. Number of lanes

The word expressway would probably conjure an image of a wide road with multiple lanes and fast free flowing traffic. That assumption is not correct. On some stretches, the expressway could be just one lane wide. For example, the Doto expressway, which brings you towards the east side of Hokkaido is a single lane expressway. Fortunately, there are over-taking lanes spaced out along the expressway.

2. Merging traffic

In different parts of the world, different traffic rules and etiquette prevail and it is important to follow the local norms. If you have merging traffic coming in from the left, typically entering into the expressway, you should slow down and give way to the incoming traffic.

3. Variable speed limit

The speed limit on the expressway is variable. It depends on road and weather conditions. LED signposts indicate the speed limit along that stretch of road. If there signposts are off or if there are no signboards, the maximum speed limit along the expressway is 100 km/h.

4. Cross winds

If you slow down to appreciate the construction of the expressways, you will find it an engineering marvel. It cuts through the mountainous valleys providing an elevated pathway for motor vehicles. It is also likely along these elevated sections that you would encounter strong cross winds. Do keep an eye out for signs indicating that you are in a windy area and keep both hands on the steering wheel.

5. Driving fatigue

Driving distance can be long and monotonous on some stretches. You do want to be alert driving at high speed along the expressway. So do make a rest stop every couple of hours, stretch yourself and get a cup of coffee. What you probably want to look for are SAs (Service Area), which usually have snack corners, food court dining area, gift shop, petrol station, parking spaces and toilets. You can check out E-NEXCO’s Drive Plaza site for info on these SAs.

These SAs are also known as Michi-no-Eki (道の駅). You can locate more info at the All Nippon Michi-no-Eki Network. Some of these SAs can be very popular or elaborate. Popular as it may offer something unique like local produce. Elaborate as some could contain a shopping center, restaurants, lodging or even a pet run area. Touring some of these SAs can be a discovery adventure in itself.

That’s all for today, are you ready for some driving in Hokkaido?

Ja
KL

5 reasons to use Chitose as Hokkaido trip base

Are you planning for a Free and Easy trip to Hokkaido? Here are 5 reasons why you should make Chitose as your base.

(1) Main Hokkaido airport is in Chitose
Most of us would think of Sapporo when travelling to Hokkaido. However, like most cities, the airport is usually located some distance off. The main airport is in Chitose, located south of Sapporo. As the main airport and an international airport, it offers the most connections into Hokkaido.

Although Chitose is an international airport, there are limited international flights that would fly direct into Chitose. In most cases, you would probably be transiting through Tokyo/Narita (NRT), Tokyo/Haneda (HND) or Osaka/Kansai (KIX).

My personal preference is Kansai since none of my preferred airlines fly direct to Chitose. Why Kansai you might ask? There are limited flights from Narita to Chitose. And while Haneda now does support international flights, there are limited international flights into Haneda. Kansai is an international airport and there are regular flights to Chitose. Which means I can land in Kansai, walk over to the domestic terminal to get my connecting flight to Chitose. You could of course take the train or other transport to get from Narita to Haneda, but with kids in tow, it wasn’t a good option for me.

 

(2) Collect rental car, local brochures and maps leisurely
After clearing immigration and customs, you would want to pick up your rental car. Make your way to the car rental counters at the airport and bring your bags with you as the car rental centres are located off the main airport terminal. Each of the car rental companies will have their own shuttle buses to bring you to their rental centres. (More info from Toyota Rent a Car here.)

Picture of Toyota Rent a Car counter at Chitose airport
Toyota Rent a Car counter at Chitose airport

 

For info on renting from Toyota Rent a Car, please see my earlier post on Helpful tips for self drive and car rental in Japan.

The Toyota Rent a Car rental centre is full of brochures. Take your time to browse around and collect maps and travel brochures from the shelves. Toyota Rent a Car provides an excellent booklet which has a big map of Hokkaido, and smaller maps of key cities in Hokkaido. You should also be able to pick up hardcopy versions of the maps that I have mentioned in my next post on Quick guide on driving in Hokkaido (Part 1).

 

(3) Visit the supermart to stock up on supplies
No need to pack your bursting bags with too much supplies from home. You can get snacks, fruits, biscuits, sweets, drinks, water, instant noodles, soap and detergent for the trip locally.

Your first stop would be to the supermarket (like Aeon) to get supplies. The Chitose Aeon store is near to the JR Chitose Station.

Picture of Aeon stores in Hokkaido
Aeon stores in Hokkaido, Chitose store, 千歳店, phone: 0123-24-3100 (Image from Aeon website)

 

It would be cheaper than getting some of these at the convenience stores later. Do ask for some cardboard boxes to pack these so you can load them up easier into the car.

For those with young kids, you can get diapers here too. And if they need porridge, there are ready to eat porridge packs which you can warm up with hot water.

 

(4) Short stress free drives to get familiar with the GPS
After the supermarket trip, it’s time to head for dinner. The trip to the supermart was your first short drive within Chitose. No stress as this is a small town and the traffic is light; so you can drive around rather leisurely. You need to get a better feel of the GPS voice guidance system to figure out exactly what distance it means when you get a prompt like turn right in 300m and turn left in 30m.

So take another short drive to a dining spot. My favourite is this small cozy Japanese restaurant, 海鮮市場 (Kaisen-Ichiba, 0123-23-7373, 4.30pm~11pm).

Picture of Restaurant Kaisen Ichiban in Chitose, Hokkaido
Restaurant Kaisen Ichiban in Chitose, Hokkaido

 

Or, you could try out this Soba restaurant, 駒そば亭 (0123-40-8816, 11am~8pm), which is near to the Rera Outlet Mall.

Picture of Soba restaurant in Chitose, Hokkaido
Soba restaurant in Chitose, Hokkaido

 

(5) Cheap lodging for the night
Following dinner, you would want to get to your hotel room and wind down. Unless you were on a red eye international flight, it would be quite late by the time you got into Chitose. There are quite a few business hotels within Chitose. These offer low cost accommodation and free parking for the night.

Picture of Chitose Airport Hotel

Chitose Airport Hotel (Image from Chitose Airport Hotel website)

 

I have stayed at Chitose Airport Hotel, Wing Hotel and Hotel Kameya. Chitose Airport Hotel is walking distance to the JR Chitose Station. Wing Hotel has newer furnishings but is further away from the JR Chitose Station.

Now would be a good time to look at the maps and brochures that you had collect at the rental car centre and confirm what you want to do for the next day or next few days. Some of these brochures also come with tourist discount coupons for the attractions.

Usually I do not have a complete itinerary for the trip. I would just have a rough driving route in mind and some key places to visit. There’s fun in discovering new things along the way and not having too rigid an itinerary.

Now, it does not mean that I am not prepared at all. I would reserve the rental car and book the first night or first two night’s accommodation and take care of the rest along the way. I will also look at some possible accommodation options for other nights. So as I confirm the itinerary for the next day or next 2 days as I progress, I can decide which accommodation option would be better. And along the way, if the accommodation options are along the route, I will check them out.

Once your itinerary for the next day is done, time to get some rest. Hokkaido is big enough that you will be driving long distances. So get well rested for the drive the next day.

Sleep tight!

Ja
KL